thanks. The room get's decent light, but no major direct sun, so UV protection isn't much of an issue. I want to have a warm wood finish, to really just let the walnut be walnut. Clear editor. This job was quick enough that they just charged me the shop minimum of $25. All in, was just a hair over an hour to load the top, drive to the shop, sand, load it back and drive home. Hey Nod. There is a comprehensive thread on this topic, I have copied it below.   Your link has been automatically embedded. The wife is now leaning towards the BLO finish with a urethane top coat. I've found several old post on the subject (and watched a couple videos too), but have a few specific questions about my potential finish technique(s) and the products I've been testing. Someone along the way applied water-based polyurethane, I assume directly over the old finish. Mine was 36X60, my shop charges $75/hour. Will post final pics once complete. Should I have just tried their 'tung oil finish'? We used the aged walnut … I selected all the wood (with his veteran guidance). I'd love to use it this weekend for dinner, like you said, it's taken this long, why rush it?! Remember, the higher the gloss of the new finish, the more the flaws will show. I know I haven't done enough coats, or have enough experience doing them, so mine aren't turning out quite as expected. June 5, 2013 in Finishing. Fix any dents/problems. It still needs to finish drying and get sanded to lose that bit of shine. Any assistance you could give me would be very helpful. my questions are these: - Is there a lighter alternative to the Watco 'natural'? I want to refinish the table to its original beauty, but need professional advice, for fear of making it worse. The finish will be beautiful, durable, and you'll be done in two days". Once the old finish is stripped away, a gel-based polyurethane would be very easy to rub into the tabletop, and you can build up the finish by reapplying as many coats as you like. I was thinking I'd have to wait a couple days. Some misc. I'm on it. Does the whole thing need to be stripped/sanded down, or can I work on just that small area? I'll have to post some pics of my sample boards when I get a chance. Maybe add a touch of amber tint. I can't seem to find anyone who's got much experience with the new formula. I finally have a house with a garage, and well, I'm starting to accumulate toys, errr.. tools and getting my hands dirty. They are not very durable over the long haul, though. Chris Marshall: Polyurethane, as Tim suggests, is an excellent finish for your table. Carefully wipe away the bad old stuff. I realize many folks have their go-to product, but here's what I've got in the works so far. Thanks again for everyone's info. Thanks Woodsap. And I've read/heard about waiting for it to cure as well. - Boiled linseed oil - several coats plus a howards wax and feed topcoat, - pure Tung oil - several coats plus howards, - Behlens rock hard urethane varnish 'satin'. Nice of 'em to let you get away with $25. just using it as the stand alone finish and/or using it as a top coat over tung or BLO? His original finish was boiled linseed oil. That’s what I did for my kitchen table, and I’ll do it again when the top finally needs refinishing someday. My neighbor happens to be a woodworker, so I enlisted his help to build the table top. To avoid hassle, ... Use a good quality polyurethane finish material for long lasting protection of your walnut table; info if it matters - I'm a graphic designer by day. Especially, finding a black walnut table is not an easy task. I only did one 50/50 blo/ms wipe on the base previously. This material is available in conventional liquid forms and in gels which can be rubbed in.   Pasted as rich text. Wood selection, giant belt sanding, finished slab, plus some shots of the test finishes. super novice want to learn more about woodworking since I was a kid. I think that is what you are dealing with on your Grandpa’s tabletop. Applying a top coat, especially for a dining table is of utmost importance. It dries pretty quickly, too. In theory, if you get a scratch or stain you can repair with a steel wool rub and new oil and wax.
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